Northerners do not eat mollusks with shells, not not eat, is not like the southerners of the general food.
Shen Zhuo “Mengxi pen-talk” Volume 24: “Now the northerners like to fry things with sesame oil, do not ask what things, are fried with oil. In Qingli, the group of bachelors will be in Yutang, so that people placed a basket of raw clams, so that the breakfast man cooked, long and not to. Guests were surprised, so that people check, then said: ‘fried has been scorched black and not yet rotten.’ Sitting guests are not laughing. “Shen Kuo, the Song Dynasty, when there may have been such a breakfast man had such a joke.
Beiping Shandong restaurant, there is a famous dish “choke green clam”. The so-called green clam, an inch long, the shell surface for light green, smooth and clean, the meat is slightly yellow, the most clean phase in the clam comparison. The method is simple, first scalded in boiling water, and then break open the shells, one by one are listed in the plate, sprinkled with wine, ginger and pepper, can be served, as a good wine. Another way to eat is to make “hibiscus green clams”, the so-called hibiscus is steamed egg custard, steamed to half-cooked when the peeled green clam meat on the surface, and then steamed for a moment that is. There are also not peeled clam meat, the whole green clam with the shell cast in the egg to steam. This method of steaming in the shell seems to be too rude, but some people say that it is not enjoyable.
Green clams can be eaten at home, and the procedure is simple, but in the north, food is mostly seasonal. At the turn of spring and summer, when yellowtail and dashi are on the market, that is the peak season for clams. I remember when my late husband was alive, as a rule, to the most abundant supply of aquatic products Dongdan Pailou vegetable market to purchase green clams, a purchase is full of a sack, there are dozens of pounds, almost a person can not lift, transported home for us to chew. First, the clam is immersed in water, after a day and night and spit out the mud. The people said that if the water is dripping with some sesame oil, the sand will be spit out faster and cleaner. I have not tried. Although clams taste fresh, it is not advisable to eat more than one, but my second sister once had a record of eating 120 green clams in one meal. People eat a meal like this, and do not think about eating again within a year.
I have never eaten green clams in Taiwan. The famous food “oyster omelet”, oyster is the Taiwanese word for oyster, which is also known as oyster. This kind of thing is abundant around Ningbo. The meat peeled out is called oyster yellow. Li Shizhen “Materia Medica”: “South Sea people, eat its meat, called oyster yellow. “In fact, oyster yellow is not limited to the South China Sea. Northeast people like to eat white meat and sauerkraut hot pot, that often put a plate of oyster yellow, so that the soup taste extra fresh. Other shellfish here, such as ha ant, gnats, sea gourd seeds, most of them are soaked in soy sauce soup, salty, losing a lot of freshness. Arks are common food in the south, artificial cultivation of arks where the name ark field. Qing Yitong Zhi: “Putian County, seventy miles east of the sea, there are ark fields four hundred hectares. “The scale is big! Arks with boiling water a hot, break open with three oil plus ginger can eat, the shell rippled with blood, so the name blood ark. I saw the blood, heart uncomfortable, and then think of the Shanghai alley every morning brush toilet people, with a bamboo broom ark shells clattering stirring the sky, looking at the ark more uncomfortable. As for the light vegetable, a shell dish, is also a famous product of Zhejiang and Fujian, dried in the sun can be used to simmer roast pork, its shape is very ugly, like a cicada dried in the sun, and some people want to get into the wrong is like another thing. In short, these shellfish are not easily accepted by northerners.
The west coast of the United States from Alaska to Southern California, the bottom of the sea produced a huge clam, the name is geoduck, very strange local people but read such as “ancient iso dek “It is also known as king clam. Its shell is not too big, the big one is only four or five inches long, but its flesh has a long thick meat sticking out of the shell, slightly stretchable, but can not be retracted into the shell, like an elephant trunk, its shape is not elegant, up to a foot long, two hard shells attached to the bottom of the form of the same. This long nose meat taste delicious, can be said to be the United States West Coast food in the timeless product. I have introduced for the article, but the people of China travel to the western United States, search for strange selection, but few people have tried the ancient foreign dek. It is hard to know the voice, and it is not easy to know the taste. My first taste was at the house of Mr. and Mrs. Yan Yiyun and Mr. Gao in Seattle, both of whom are skilled in the art of tooth-expression. Mr. Gao told me, although the ancient foreign dek is a rare product, and the Americans are not good at handling, more senior restaurant menu occasionally also listed this flavor, but cooked, despite the fierce addition of brandy, either tough as a shoe sole, or taste like chewing wax. All because of the Western cooking methods, no more than deep-fried, boiled, hot roasted, is the lack of our Chinese “fried”. They simply do not have a stir-fry pan. There is no equivalent word for “stir fry” in English, so the current translation is generally stir fry (tossing and frying). Mr. Gao made the ancient iso dek is to use the stir-fry method, first cut off the elephant trunk-shaped flesh, the rest of the discarded, with a boiling water, the exterior layer of coarse wrinkled pine skin will be easy to fall off, and then cut into thin slices, the thinner the better. High heat, boiling oil, stir-fry, add onion, ginger and salt, stirring ten or so times, cooked, slightly add cornstarch, so that the sauce thickened, while hot on the table. Taste the taste of Guangdong restaurant “fried snail”.
Americans do not understand this. The “clam chowder” (clam chowder), which is popular all over the United States, tastes good, with a lot of sweet potato, milk and flour in it, and it is so thick and gooey that it is hard to It is hard to find clams in it. Now they are thinking of “clam chowder”, chopping up the clam chowder and canning it, so I think the flavor is not bad. On May 7, 1986, a newspaper in Taiwan published a news-style advertisement with the headline of “Deep-sea Precious Abalone Shells – Good Taste with Fresh Flesh “. The name of abalone shells is a good one, that is, ancient iso dek. It is said that abalone shells were introduced to Japan in 1976, and they were also eaten raw. It seems that it has not yet been noticed by gourmets in Taiwan, perhaps because we already have too many delicious varieties. The smallest of the shellfish is the “yellow mud snail” from Jiangsu and Zhejiang. I have never seen such a thing. Jing Qing said she grew up loving to eat it, often without it in the congee and small dishes. One day she actually caught a glimpse of a bottle of yellow mud snail in a store in Taipei, as if she had met her old friend in another country, bought it all back. It is told that this is a seafarer accidentally brought to the consignment, later to buy again can not buy. The yellow mud snail is as small as a green bean, black, inconspicuous, the meat inside is of course pathetic, and very salty.
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