The U.S. government is reportedly considering a ban on the import of some or all cotton products from China’s Xinjiang region. The ban could begin as early as Tuesday (Sept. 8), according to “three people with knowledge of the matter” cited by the New York Times.
Recent studies and news reports on human rights in Xinjiang indicate that millions of predominantly Muslim Uighurs and Kazakhs have been recruited to work in factories, cotton farms, and textile mills in a variety of labor-intensive jobs. The ban was most likely prompted by widespread concerns about forced labor in Xinjiang.
According to the New York Times, the ban, known as a “withhold release order,” will be issued by U.S. Customs and Border Protection. If the agency determines that Xinjiang cotton products are made with forced labor, the goods subject to the withholding order must be re-exported or destroyed. The agency has issued such suspensions in the past against individual companies suspected of using forced labor in Xinjiang.
According to Reuters, it is unclear whether the ban would cover only all cotton products shipped from Xinjiang or China, or whether it would extend to products containing Xinjiang cotton shipped from a third country. The White House, the U.S. Department of Homeland Security, and U.S. Customs and Border Protection have yet to respond.
Xinjiang is a major source of cotton, textiles, petrochemicals, and other products from Chinese factories. Many of the world’s best-known apparel brands rely on China’s supply chain, including the use of cotton and textiles from Xinjiang.
The implementation of the ban will likely cause international apparel makers to shift production to countries such as Vietnam, Bangladesh, and Indonesia.
In July, the Trump administration blacklisted several apparel companies for using textiles produced by forced laborers in Xinjiang. The list includes major international apparel brands such as Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and Hugo Boss. The companies say that the opaque nature of China’s supply chain makes it difficult for them to pinpoint the exact source of their cotton.
According to the South China Morning Post, about 85 percent of China’s cotton is grown in Xinjiang, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture. A coalition of textile unions and pro-democracy organizations estimates that about one-fifth of all cotton garments sold worldwide contain Xinjiang cotton or yarn.
The coalition also called on major apparel brands and retailers to stop sourcing cotton products from Xinjiang within 12 months.
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