Today it snowed a lot, I said to my dad, let’s make you a bowl of roast pork, okay?
Dad went to buy meat early in the morning, fatty and lean several layers of pancetta.
He has never eaten my roast pork, after I gave birth to a child will do this well-known traditional dish, not only this dish, after giving birth to a child I have improved my cooking skills, there are several can take the hand, named, set on the family feast dishes, but Dad has not eaten one. Because of the thousands of mountains and miles of distance, this was the first time he came here, my little home, after my marriage.
My father-in-law loved it, and the first time he tried it he received heartfelt praise and inspired me so strongly with his practical actions that he ate a lot of it. Unfortunately, I made it too few times, and unfortunately he passed away too early.
Old people love to eat fatty and greasy meat, even if they didn’t like grease when they were young, they crave it as soon as they get older, but most of them don’t dare to eat more because of health reasons or other reasons. My father-in-law, mother-in-law, mother, and my mother-in-law’s friends, all love to eat. I remember when I was young, I saw my grandma hiding in the kitchen, eating fatty meat with her head buried in the kitchen. At that time, I couldn’t understand why my grandmother secretly ate fatty meat, but now I find that my mother has become the same way, she obviously likes to eat and is not in danger of “three highs”, but she is too embarrassed to put another piece at the dinner table. I realized that, in their opinion, it is disrespectful for an older person to eat in front of the younger ones.
“When parents are here, children do not travel far.” I am not a filial daughter, so far away, so that they do not have the blessing of children and grandchildren around their knees their happiness, but also every year because we migrate like migratory birds, two aging migratory birds. I also gradually put all my body and mind into my own little family, the trickle of affection flowing downward as it should, and upward against the current has become our hidden burden, more by parents as an extra gift. So, when I said I wanted to make roast pork for my dad, he went to buy good pork in the wind chill, while I was holding my daughter in front of the window, teaching her to appreciate the snow.
Sometime later, I must have regretted my own ungrateful behavior.
All the wake-up call came when the possessions that I thought were long-lasting and constant were suddenly annihilated.
Well, let’s talk about today’s roast pork.
First, the meat is immersed in cold water, which is said to allow the blood to flow out of the meat. It does make sense, because soaking on an hour, the water becomes a light blood, rinse twice, you do not need to blanch the meat, blanching the meat will affect the taste of the. Cut the meat into two centimeter cubes and set aside. The previous practice, I am in the pot of hot oil, put ginger and cinnamon, pour the meat, stir-fry for a long time, and then colored with soy sauce, add wine, hot water, rolled over high heat and simmered. The taste is good, but the lean meat is often fried and very woody, can not melt in the mouth pancetta is obviously not authentic. So this time, I changed the process and decided to omit the hot oil stir-fry step.
The process has changed, the recipe must also change, the seasoning only ginger, a little soy sauce, salt and yellow wine, all the others do not, including water. This is not an invention, Yuan Mei’s famous “Suiyuan Food List” has “three methods of red confit meat”, “one pound of meat per pound, with salt three money, pure wine simmered, do not add sugar fried color.” Wang Zengqi’s “five flavors” in the “Dongpo meat” section also wrote, “Dongpo on the method of cooking meat, the cloud must avoid water, as a last resort, can be strong tea and strong wine instead.” Later Baidu a little wine, “cooking with wine, meat has fishy amines dissolved in alcohol, evaporated with the alcohol when heated, to achieve the purpose of deodorization. The amino acids in the wine can combine with salt in cooking to produce sodium amino acid salt, which makes the meat taste more delicious. Amino acids can also form an attractive aroma with the sugar in the seasoning, making the dish rich in flavor.” Nowadays, pigs are grown on feed, and the meat tastes more fishy than in the old days, so it is perfectly feasible not to add water. So, the second star of today’s dish was the wine, and I didn’t think twice about throwing in a pound of Lichun.
The deep-mouthed pot with a tempered glass lid makes it easy to see what’s going on inside the pot. First, the pot will be full of yellow wine boiling, throw the meat, the fire rolled, add a little soy sauce, the right amount of salt (the right amount is not easy to grasp, you can gradually add, lick the soup with your tongue to taste the saltiness), ginger, to be rolled again, turn the gas stove can reach the smallest small fire, but unfortunately my family’s stove is not sophisticated enough, the smallest fire is still too big, because the soup is not “slightly bubbly The soup is not “slightly bubbly”. There is no way out, so simmer it. In the middle of the pot, the lid should not be uncovered at will, because the old man said, “often up the lid, the oil is gone and the taste is carried in the oil”, and, “early pot is yellow, when it can be red, too late, the red becomes purple”, thanks to the progress of the times and the development of material productivity. Compared to the ancients, the original purely technical flow of the pot cover is now visualized. “Tight fire porridge, slow fire meat”, stewing meat, all in a fire, the most pork-loving Su Dongpo said, “the rich do not understand to eat, the poor do not understand to cook”, no three or four hours, really do not want to eat good meat. The pressure cooker is a convenient and quick cooking tool that does not allow people to enjoy the delicate taste of the dense food from the slow fire.
Simmer for four hours, add two rock sugar, turn the heat to juice, turn off the heat, plate. At this point, the soup and meat rounded and mingled, sticky and detailed, red as amber. And the original square meat, rotten to no sharp edges, round to be very happy. I clip a piece for my mother to try, but accidentally fell on the ground is broken. In the mouth, the fatty meat is soft and fragrant without grease, and the fine meat is all melted.
The only thing that matters under the sun is the word “serious”. The roast pork with this much effort must be a great success.
The snowy days in Jiangnan are very precious, so I heated up a pot of old Huadiao and poured a cup for each of my family members, and with the snow and the red meat, “Mom and Dad, may you live a long life, here’s to you, my daughter!
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