Every winter, it will think of a Writer once wrote the phrase “nothing more than a bowl of hot Soup to drink”, the cold winter, the most comforting, is undoubtedly those steaming hot Food The most comforting thing on a cold winter day is undoubtedly the hot food.
Behind the hidden food is a meeting, a habit, or even a Life.
When you look at the writers’ food, it seems that you can see the world they live in through the prism of that noisy but also near parting party, the roasted venison in the world of white snow and red plums, or the warm pot on the wu tai boat after going to the grave, after freezing your hands cold, “fish rounds, meat cakes,” and The dish is made from sea cucumber, vermicelli and cabbage, plus chicken cake and bamboo shoots.
At this Time, it reminds me of what Ryu Murakami said, “It’s a terrible thing to drink soup,” because “The hot soup was so good that for a moment I forgot all about my friend and forgot all about him. I forgot about that friend’s troubles and distress. Don’t you think it’s terrible? “
This kind of horrible between trance, but also with a kind of warmth.
Liang Shiqiu
The Soup Buns
Yuhuatai’s soup dumplings are the real dumplings with a wangzi of soup. There are seven or eight buns in a drawer, and they are served on the table with the drawer, steaming hot, with a steamer cloth underneath the buns, and the buns are flattened on the steamer cloth. When you take food, you have to be quick, grab the folds of the bun and lift it up, the skin of the bun suddenly fell, like a baby sucking on a deflated breast, while the bun did not break quickly into their own plate, gently bite through the skin of the bun, which will suck the soup down, and then eat the empty skin of the bun.
In fact, a large part of the fun of eating this kind of bun is in that one grab and suck between. The bun skin is hot noodles, a little harder than the hot dumplings, otherwise the soup can not be wrapped. The soup is originally a meat juice jelly, which is cooked into the meat skin together, so that it can be condensed into the bun filling. Inside the soup you can see some scraps of meat.
Such soup will not taste too good. I don’t quite understand why you have to fill the soup with buns and then drink it.
Marcel Proust
Reminiscences of a bygone era
One winter, I came Home, my mother saw me cold like that, so she urged me to drink some tea to warm up. I don’t usually drink tea, so I first said no, and then somehow changed my mind. My mother had someone bring me a snack, a short, fat snack called “Little Madeleine”, which looked like it was made from a scallop shell like a snack mold.
It was a gloomy day and I was in a depressed mood, so I accidentally scooped a spoonful of tea and brought it to my mouth. At first, I had broken a piece of “little Madeleine” and put it into the tea to soften it for consumption. The spoonful of tea with the crumbs hit my palate, and I was immediately jolted, and I noticed an extraordinary change in me. A soothing feeling of pleasure spread throughout my body, and I felt transcendent, but I didn’t know what was causing it.
Wang Zengqi
Winter
In winter, we eat vegetables such as green cabbage and frozen tofu. The green cabbage is collapsed, flat against the ground, and is called “collapsed bitter cabbage” in the south of the Yangtze River, which has a slightly bitter taste. My grandmother created a small piece of land in the back garden to grow black cabbage, and after the frost, the leaves are purple-red at the edges and taste bitter but sweet. It is hard to compare the taste of this vegetable with “crab oil” when it is cooked together. Crab oil” is made by boiling large crabs, picking out the meat and adding lard. “Refined” into a large sea bowl, condensed into crab jelly, long storage does not go bad, can eat a winter.
After the tofu is frozen, I don’t know why it is honeycomb-shaped. Melt, cut small pieces, with fresh meat, salted meat, beef, sea rice or salted vegetables cooked together, no good. Frozen tofu is advisable to put chili and green garlic. We used to have no northern cabbage there, only “bok choy”. Cabbage is shipped from Shandong, the beautiful name is “yellow sprouts”, very expensive. The “bok choy” is like rape and large, two feet high, is available all year round, the Family eat vegetables. Pickled vegetables that is pickled with bok choy. When it snows on a cloudy day, we drink pickled vegetable soup.
Cao Xueqin
A Dream of the Red Chamber”, the forty-ninth round “the glazed world of white snow and red plums, fat and powder, and the fragrant children cut the fishy and munch
The first time the sisters came together, Baoyu only yelled that he was hungry and urged for food. The first dish was steamed lamb with cow’s milk. The first dish was the steamed lamb. Jia mother said: “This is the Medicine for our old people, something that has not seen the light of day, but unfortunately you children can not eat. The other thing is that there is fresh venison today, you wait to eat. The people agreed.
Baoyu but can not wait, only to take a bowl of rice tea, on the pheasant melon fragments busy swallowed. Jia mother said: “I know that you have something to do today, and do not even care to eat rice”, and called “The first thing you need to do is to save the venison and eat it at night,” Feng said. “, and only then did she stop.
Shi Xiangyun then quietly and Bao Yu said: “there is fresh venison, why do not we want a piece, take the garden to get their own, and naughty and eat. “Bao Yu listened to, can not wait for a sound, it really and Phoenix to ask for a piece, ordered the granny to send into the garden.
Yuan Mei
The Garden of the Suiyuan Food List
Ni Yunlin Collection” contains the method of making goose. The whole set of goose a, washed with salt three money rub its belly, stuffed onion a broom fill solid which, outside the honey mixed with wine through the body full of coated, pot a large bowl of wine, a large bowl of water steamed, with bamboo chopsticks frame it, do not make the goose body near the water. Stove with two bundles of mountain fescue, slowly burned out as degree. Once the pot cover cold uncover the pot cover, the goose will turn over, still seal the pot cover steamed, and then a bundle of thatch wood burned out as degree.
Firewood once it is self-extinguishing, do not provoke. Pot cover with cotton paper paste seal, forcing dry cracks, with water to moisten the. When the pot, not only goose rotten as mud, soup is also delicious. This method of making duck, the taste and beauty of the same. Each thatched wood a bunch, weighing one catty eight taels. When rubbing salt, string into the onion, pepper powder, with wine and even. The “Cloud Forest Collection” contains a lot of food; only this method, tried and tested quite effective, the rest will be attached.
Zhang Eiling
Talking About Eating and Filling the Hunger with Pie
When I was a child in Tianjin, I used to eat duck tongue and radish soup, and I learned to bite a small flat bone on the root of the duck tongue and pull it out, like pulling out a shoe. Compared with the bean-sized duck brain, ducks are really long tongue, no wonder they are short and high, “curry curry curry” so loud. The duck tongue in the soup is white, very shy and tender. I have not seen such a dish since I arrived in Shanghai. After coming to the south also have not seen roast duck soup – buy ready-made roast duck forging soup, the soup is clear and delicious. The roast duck was very small, and I don’t know if it was a suckling duck or if it was shrunk during the grilling process. The pores on the ochre-yellow wrinkled skin were enlarged, and a grain of goose bumps stood out as a small square pattern. This skin is especially delicious, the whole is a washed out grease, thinning and purifying roast duck.
The duck is eaten by people in the north, and Peking duck is just one example. In the north, it is often eaten with loin soup, a pair of loin and loin meat small radish cooked together. The loin meat maids also called “waist plum meat”, probably in Nanjing, I never understood why it was called “waist plum meat”. I never understood why it was called “waist plum meat”. It’s not like it’s dried vegetables and meat. Years later, it dawned on me that it was “waist eyebrow meat”. Both sides of the waist, the most fatal injury to a small area called the waist eye. About an inch above the waist eye is the “waist eyebrow”. It is really a stroke of genius in language.
Waist eyebrow meat waist eyebrow meat
Xiao Hong
The Day
When the iron plate of the stove was very hot, I stood next to the stove and cooked rice, making a lot of noise with my knife and spoon. The fire in the stove cavity was a small explosion, the rice pot was steaming, the onions were fried in the oil emitting a very fragrant cooking smell, I watched the onions rolling in the oil, gradually turning yellow.
…… small foreign knife as if peeling the skin of a pear to scrape the ground beans (potatoes) very white, very beautiful, peeled ground beans are creamy yellow, soft and elastic, the hearth laid a piece of paper, the ground beans and then cut into thin slices, rice is cooked, ground beans fried. I opened the small window and looked out, and a few puppies were playing in the center of the courtyard.
Zhou Zuoren
Warming Pot
In the countryside, warming pots are often used on the winter table, and ordinary families cannot use them every day, but they are almost always used when there is something going on, such as ancestor worship and New Year.
The first bowl of the “ten bowls of head” at a table must be three kinds of fresh food, so when using a hot pot, this kind of food is put into it, probably mainly fish round meat cakes, sea cucumber, vermicelli and cabbage at the bottom, plus chicken cake and bamboo shoots. Other times are not so bad, but it is most necessary during the first month of the lunar calendar, when we visit the graves.
Back on the boat, although the rice and wine is hot, the food is cold, the middle set up a hot pot, not only the pot of things steaming, each person will also buckle meat, buckle chicken and the bottom of the taro, golden needle vegetables and so on are added, “Goo “After a while, into a large pot of chowder, hot and delicious, much better than the usual bowl of individual food. The countryside wedding, regardless of the rich and poor as a rule to hire a bride to take care of, Zhendong is by the women of the fallen people as its task, they have a right in addition to pay, is the new house and guests part of the remaining food to take home. They used a red lacquered bucket to pour the leftovers in, and every day someone from the family came to take it away. I have not had the opportunity to eat this, but with the experience of the hot pot, the above words are probably not all false.
Liang Xiaosheng
Song at the Bridge
I said I would have a bowl of “Yangchun noodles”.
She said there are two prices – one is 8 cents a bowl, only snow vegetables; the other is 12 cents a bowl, plus minced meat.
I didn’t hesitate to say it would be 8 cents a bowl.
I think, just because of a little minced meat, spend half a bowl of noodles, too extravagant. She also said that there are two kinds of snow cabbage. One is cooked snow cabbage, mainly leaves; one is raw snow cabbage mixed with salt, mainly stems. The former has a pickled taste, while the latter is crunchy, and asked me which one I prefer.
I had a heavy mouth and asked for the former. I didn’t sit down, but stood by the window of the stove and watched her make a bowl of “Yangchun noodles” for me.
After I became a student of Fudan, I learned that Shanghai people call a kind of noodles “Yangchun noodles”. Why it is called “Yangchun noodles” is still unclear, but I appreciate that name. Just as I am not an alcoholic, I appreciate the names of certain wines. The name I appreciate most is “Bamboo Leaf Green”, even though it is not considered a high class wine. “Yangchun noodles” is just as poetic as “bamboo leaf green”. It’s just as poetic. The noodles we love to eat in the north are not too straightforward.
Then the woman I should call sister-in-law, a moment to cook a bowl of noodles for me, and then blanch them again in another pot of water. This way, the noodles fished in the bowl look extra white. The other pot of water was also boiled just for my bowl of noodles. After that, the soup was added to the bowl, adding snow vegetables. The soup, too, was very clear.
Ryu Murakami
The Lonely Gourmet
“The good soup was frightening. ” she said as she took the red tomatoes and the clear grease of the carp into her mouth. “Scary? “”Yes. “”What do you mean? “”I used to feel that way. When I went back to Budapest, I saw an old friend. This friend did not flee, but wanted to flee very much, and still wants to flee. Isn’t the conversation often very gloomy at times like this? I had a lot of emotions at the time. However, when I got home, I had the soup my mother had cooked. It was the same as this one, a tomato and carp soup. It happened to be winter, and the hot soup was especially good.
For a moment, I completely forgot about my friend and forgot all about it. I forgot about that friend’s troubles and distress. Don’t you think it’s terrible? “We looked at each other and nodded as we sipped the herb and garlic egg flower soup. That kind of soup has a little sweetness to it, and the aroma of herbs and garlic delicately tingles the throat, and the soft egg blossoms slide across the tongue in a way that makes you want to sigh. “This soup is also kind of awful. ” I murmured, and all three laughed at the same time. The next moment, the laughter stopped. Friends, loved ones, lovers. We pondered whose misery the hot soup really made us forget.
Jin Yucheng
The Prosperous Flower
The first thing you need to do is to take a pair of ivory chopsticks, eat to the east to eat to the west, eat anything without a ticket, name a senior Western food, usually sirloin steak, fried lamb, cream Portuguese chicken, incite onion soup, incite snails, Chinese food hall of fame, there are more, elegant, such as Gold powder slip gold bars, Xiao Mao said, what. Uncle swallowed a mouthful of greedy saliva, said, is the shrimp hoof, stewed tofu like, such as the West Lake Ulva soup, the world’s first soup, the Jade Emperor’s favorite, really called is slippery, fresh, such as gold and silver hoof, ham hoof stew fresh hoof, lotus leaf steamed meat, good five-flower meat, with the account meat ticket, simply can not buy, cut pieces with material marinated through, covered with fried fragrant glutinous rice powder, lotus leaf wrapped tightly, on the powder steamed through, flat mouth eight treasures, flat mouth is the duck. The belly of the eight treasures, eighteen treasures, each name, all in place. ……
The first uncle ate into half a bowl, chest a straight said, with the memory of the bitterness of the sweetness, I am alarmed a beat, is this, you old listeners, old listeners, this morning, I will tell a story about the talented man Tang Yin, fallen on hard times, poor eyes before, only a bowl of white rice left, dying ah, no matter how to swallow not fall, called the little boy, stand to the side, slowly sing the name of the dish, the little boy’s head and neck bone a stretch, now report the dish, hey ah, loud oil can paste to Tang Bohu stretched chopsticks, empty on the table, is a clip, a mouthful of white rice, slip fried chicken, come what is. Tang Bohu took a bite of white rice. Eight pieces of meat, that is, braised meat, Tang Bohu took a bite of white rice. Marinated fresh casserole a guest ah. Tang Bohu used a spoon instead, and scooped it up in the air, and then turned the spoon down, and scooped up a mouthful of white rice, haha. The oiled hoof marrow came, fragrant is fragrant glutinous is glutinous. Tang Bohu chopsticks towards the front of a clip, a roll, this is the old eaters, know how to eat the skin of the hoof marrow first, in fact, only a few grains of rice crumbs, eat into the mouth.
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